Foreword ix
Acknowledgments. xiii
Introduction xv

Part 1. Esthetics and Esthesia: Touristic and Gastronomic Practices and Places 1
Introduction to Part 1 3

Chapter 1. Esthetization of Taste 5
1.1. Esthetization of taste for and by tourists 5
1.1.1. The "invention" of tourism, linked to the pleasure of taste 5
1.1.2. Taste - a socio-spatial and cultural marker 10
1.2. The taste of "the wild" and the example of meat and hunting 16
1.2.1. What can be said about meat consumption in France? 16
1.2.2. Hunting - an identity marker 19
1.2.3. Tourism - the savior of hunting? 25
1.3. An iconic taste: the "taste of the mountain" 29
1.3.1. Contemplative thought, taste and the definition of a new tourist resource 29
1.3.2. Macrosocial scale: the identification of a "common": the "taste of the mountain" 34
1.3.3. Microsocial scale: culinary identities of chefs 40
1.3.4. Spatial dynamics and the establishment of tourism for the taste of the mountain. 44
1.4. Conclusion 46

Chapter 2. The Esthetization of Places and Environments and the Connected Tourist Mobility 47
2.1. The contribution of human and social sciences (specifically, geography) to the understanding of tourist mobility linked to gastronomy. 48
2.1.1. The necessary geographic, cultural and social reinterpretation of mobility and gourmet tourism practices. 48
2.1.2. A reconfiguration of starred restaurants in France? 51
2.1.3. Tourist imaginaries and their socio-spatial dimension 54
2.2. Traveling for the pleasure of taste at local level: the (starred) restaurant at the heart of practices and imaginaries of gastronomy 57
2.2.1. One-star restaurants "are worth a visit": between excellence and finesse 57
2.2.2. Two-star restaurants are "worth a detour": sophistication and exceptional nature 61
2.2.3. Three-star restaurants are "worth a special journey": theatricality and uniqueness of gourmet tourist destinations 67
2.3. Traveling for the pleasure of taste at local scale in a concentric logic: the scale of the city and/or tourist resort 75
2.3.1. Megève - a center with multidimensional tourist projections 75
2.3.2. Courchevel - a center driven by seasonal tourism and gastronomy 78
2.3.3. Val-d'Isère/Tignes - an intermediary model? 82
2.4. Traveling throughout the region for the pleasure of taste 86
2.4.1. Networks being formally established, but informal paths 86
2.4.2. As-yet hesitant coordination among the various actors 88
2.4.3. Towards regional structuring? 90
2.5. Conclusion 91

Part 2. Structuring of Gourmet Tourist Destinations: The Example of the Savoie Region, in France 93
Introduction to Part 2 95

Chapter 3. Certification and Heritagization of Gourmand Food 99
3.1. Certifying the quality and origin of products and/or producers: a crucial step from the point of view of tourism? 99
3.1.1. Territorial labeling and territory brands, in the service of tourism? 99
3.1.2. Towards a definition of circumstantial and/or structural gastronomic trends 109
3.2. Certification for and by tourists - the example of Savoie 120
3.2.1. Networking of actors: reinforcement and/or construction of supply chains, driven by starred chefs 120
3.2.2. Defining quality in or outside of networks: the example of labels in the wine world 125
3.2.3. Strategies for certification with limited means: territorial brands 132
3.2.4. Collective identifications and concerted dynamics: the challenge of collective brands 138
3.3. Inhabiting places in a space-time that is out of the ordinary: heritagization of gastronomy for and by tourists 144
3.3.1. When tourists - through their discourse, imaginaries and practices - bring about heritagization: the example of FACIM 144
3.3.2. Inhabiting spaces touristically: a condition sine qua non for the co-construction of heritage linked to gastronomy. The example of Les Bauges 146
3.4. Conclusion 151

Chapter 4. Establishing the Conditions Necessary for Local Development on the Basis of Gastronomy 153
4.1. Definition of local development 153
4.2. Collective gastronomic identification - the example of the foothills of Savoie 155
4.2.1. Aix-les-Bains - Riviera des Alpes - from one identity to another: well-being redefined by gastronomy 155
4.2.2. In the foothills of Savoie, constructing a local taste preference in order to set oneself apart 160
4.2.3. Territorial development shaped by Michaël Arnoult. 165
4.3. The call for a collective cultural identity: the example of Opinel 174
4.3.1. Mountains and workshops on the establishment of tourism in the cutlery industry 174
4.3.2. The "gastronomization" of Opinel. 177
4.3.3. The winning revaluation of an entire product range 179
4.4. Conclusion 180

Part 3. Around the World in Gourmet Tourist Destinations 183
Introduction to Part 3 185

Chapter 5. Sector-Specific Approaches: An International Perspective 187
5.1. Strength, issues and risks attached to sector-specific approaches 187
5.1.1. An overview of sector-specific approaches to the offer of solid refreshment 187
5.1.2. An overview of sector-specific approaches to liquid offerings 189
5.2. Analysis of sector-specific approaches linked to a solid offer 190
5.2.1. Olive tourism 190
5.2.2. Cheese tourism 192
5.2.3. Pescatourism 200
5.2.4. Truffle tourism 202
5.2.5. Other more anecdotal examples: tourism driven by bread, pasta, spices, etc. 205
5.3. Sector-specific approaches linked to a liquid product 210
5.3.1. Brewery and beer tourism 210
5.3.2. Spiritourism 214
5.3.3. Tea tourism and coffee tourism 218
5.3.4. Cacao tourism 222
5.4. Conclusion 224

Chapter 6. Gourmet Tourist Destinations Intersecting with Tourist Projects 227
6.1. At the crossroads between real estate and business projects: gourmet tourism and the reinvention of cities ... 228
6.1.1. In France, different urban strategies 228
6.1.2. Internationally, gastronomy at the heart of urban strategies. The example of Lima - "world capital of gastronomy" 234
6.2. ... to the necessary formation of a network of cities with an international outlook 239
6.2.1. The UNESCO Creative Cities Network - City of Gastronomy: institutional recognition; the example of Rouen
in France 240
6.2.2. The Food Capitals network: mobilization of the political élites in favor of a cultural policy for gastronomy? 243
6.3. Conclusion 247

Conclusion 249
References 253
Index 279

Tourism and Gastronomy

Traveling for the Pleasure of Tasting Food